A Plate Lamellar Armor (Tombstones) – Stainless Steel – 25/pack for SCA LARP

Description

These plates can be used to construct lamellar armor for Sport Combat, Cosplay, and LARP.  This steel version of these plates will make heavy-duty combat grade armor for blunted-steel weapon combat.  Dagohir and Amtgard padded-weapon combat prefers the use of steel for aesthetics and weight penalties.  The hardened aluminum version of these plates are acceptable and well suited for SCA Rattan Combat.
The “A” plate – The general shape of this plate is seen in 600 BC Cyprus, Chinese Turkestan, Niya Turkestan, Turfan, 10th century Birka Sweden, 7-8th century Hungery, Western Siberia, and Khara Khotu Etsin Gol, though the lacing/hole pattern is different between regions.  A version with a domed center is found from 950-1250 C.E. with the Rus and in Kazachstan. These plates have also been called “auk” and “tombstone” plates.
Material: 18 gauge 304 Stainless Steel
Plate Size: 2.75 x 1.37 x 0.063 inches
25 plates = 28.9 oz. = 819 grams
Finish = Tumble polished and de-burred = smooth but not shiny
They don't need to be polished or deburred before assembling with paracord or leather lace.
Most importantly, THEY WILL NEVER RUST!
Assembly and Sizing:
For each row you will need 1 plate for every inch of circumference. The effective vertical stacking gives you 2 inches for every row after the first. (2 rows = 4.75in, 3 rows = 6.75in, 4 rows = 8.75in, etc.) The average vest with shoulder protection for a 6ft, 180lb man needs 350 plates or 7 packs.
Leather and hide lacing is historically accurate but I recommend using 550 paracord. It is abrasion resistant, doesn't dry rot and makes for an easy assembly. Purchase about 300ft of paracord for a body harness. You will assemble your armor in rows and then attach the rows together. Cut a length of paracord 3x longer than the row you are assembling. This allows for the threading and excess at the end of the row for adjustments. Use a lighter to fuse the ends of the paracord to prevent fraying. You can make one end of the paracord a “needle” by pinch forming the “blob” of heated paracord with a pair of pliers. Be careful, molten paracord is VERY hot and sticks to your skin causing severe burns. Use the holes in the center of the plates to create rows. You can have your stitches at 90 degree angles. I prefer the diagonal lacing pattern but there is no noticeable difference in performance. After you create your rows, then attach the rows together. You will notice how quickly and dramatically the armor’s rigidity increases at this point! You may want to edge the completed armor in leather to increase the lifespan of undertunics and leather accessories that come in contact with the edges.
Plate Compatibility:
Is there any historical reason why I did this? Absolutely not. I just thought it would be cool if the hole patterns between our "A" plate and "D" plate were compatible. I thought some interesting designs could be a result from this. I love people's creativity and would love to see what you can create from this. Both plates have the same height, but the "A" plate covers twice the width of the "D" plate.